By the Sill Shade workroom team — 60+ years of sewing every curtain style in this guide.
Curtains are sorted three ways: by header style (how the panel attaches to the rod), by fabric and opacity (how much light gets through), and by length (where the hem lands). Header style changes the look the most — a rod pocket panel and a pinch pleat panel cut from the same fabric read as two completely different windows. Below are the 15 types we sew and hang most often, what each one is actually good for, and the workroom notes you will not find on a product page.
Part 1: Types by Header Style (7)
The header is the top few inches of the panel — the part that grips the rod. It decides how the fabric folds, how easily the curtain glides, and how much rod you see.
| Header | How it hangs | Best for | Workroom note |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Rod pocket | Rod slides through a sewn channel | Stationary panels, sheers, cottage looks | Cheapest to make and the hardest to open — fabric drags on the rod. Never use it on curtains you close nightly. |
| 2. Grommet (eyelet) | Metal rings punched into the header ride the rod | Curtains you actually open and close daily | Our default recommendation for everyday use — nothing glides better. Fabric tops out about an inch below the rod, so factor that into length. |
| 3. Pinch pleat (French pleat) | Hooks in sewn pleats hang from rings | Formal rooms, custom drapery | The most tailored header there is. Needs 2 to 2.5x fullness and proper hooks — this is where custom workrooms earn their keep. |
| 4. Pencil pleat | Gathered tape drawn into tight vertical folds | Traditional rooms, wide windows | Forgiving: the tape lets you adjust fullness after sewing. Common in the UK, less so in US ready-mades. |
| 5. Goblet pleat | Pleats stuffed into rounded cups | High ceilings, formal dining and living rooms | Stationary only — the cups crush if you drag the panel open. Stunning at 9 feet and up. |
| 6. Tab top | Fabric loops wrap over the rod | Casual, decorative panels | Shows the most rod of any header. Poor glide, so treat it as a stationary style. |
| 7. Back tab (hidden tab) | Loops sewn behind the header hide the rod | Modern rooms, clean flat-fold looks | Gives soft even folds with no visible hardware. Slower to open than grommets but much tidier than tab top. |
Ring clips are not a header so much as a workaround: metal clips grip any flat panel and hang from rings. They are the fastest way to convert a rod pocket panel into something that glides — just remember each clip adds an inch or two of drop.
Whichever header you choose, mount the rod high and let the panels reach the floor. Our guide to hanging curtains covers the exact heights, and the curtain length guide has the size chart. Not sure which ready-made size fits your window? The standard curtain sizes chart maps every drop to a use.
Part 2: Types by Fabric and Light Control (4)
8. Sheer curtains
Loosely woven voile, linen blends, or lace. They soften daylight and blur the view without blocking either. Sheers need the most fullness of any curtain — aim for 2.5 to 3 times the rod width or they look starved. Best layered behind a heavier panel, not used alone in a bedroom. And if hard slatted coverings are in the running too, our guide to the types of blinds covers that side of the aisle.
9. Light-filtering (semi-sheer) curtains
Tighter weaves — cotton, linen, faux silk — that glow rather than glare. Daytime privacy is decent; nighttime privacy is not, because a lit room turns any semi-sheer into a silhouette screen. This is the most common living room choice. Choosing for a specific room is a different exercise — start with the living room curtains guide.
10. Room-darkening (lined) curtains
A decorative face fabric with a separate lining sewn behind it. Lining is the single biggest upgrade you can make to a curtain: it blocks most light, protects the face fabric from sun rot, adds weight so the panel hangs straight, and buys a real insulation gain. Most of what we sew in the workroom is lined.
11. Blackout and thermal curtains
Blackout uses a dense or foam-backed lining to stop essentially all light through the fabric itself. Two honest cautions: light still leaks around the edges unless the rod extends well past the frame, and blackout fabric is stiff, so it needs sturdier hardware. Thermal curtains use a similar heavy interlining aimed at insulation rather than darkness — great for drafty winter windows.
Part 3: Types by Length and Format (4)
12. Cafe curtains
Half-height panels on a rod mounted mid-window, covering only the bottom half. They give privacy at eye level while daylight pours in above — which is exactly why kitchens and bathrooms love them. Full details in our cafe curtains guide.
13. Sill and apron length
Sill length stops within half an inch of the windowsill; apron length falls about four inches below it, covering the trim. Both are correct above radiators, counters, and window seats — anywhere floor-length fabric would be a nuisance or a fire risk.
14. Floor length
The default for living rooms, bedrooms, and dining rooms. The hem either floats a finger-width above the floor, kisses it, or breaks slightly. Pick one style and keep it consistent through the whole room.
15. Puddled curtains
One to six extra inches of fabric pooled on the floor. Romantic and undeniably luxurious in formal rooms with stationary panels — and a dust magnet everywhere else. We steer customers with pets or robot vacuums away from it.
How to Choose in 60 Seconds
- Will you open and close it daily? Yes, go grommet, back tab, or ring clips. No, anything goes.
- How dark does the room need to be? Bedroom, go lined or blackout. Living room, go light-filtering. Layering sheers plus a lined panel gives you both.
- What is under the window? Radiator, counter, or bench means sill or cafe length. Clear wall means floor length.
- How formal is the room? Pinch or goblet pleat for formal; grommet or back tab for modern; rod pocket or tab top for cottage and casual.
Then measure before you buy anything — the numbers matter more than the style. Our measuring guide takes about five minutes.
Curtain Types FAQ
What is the most popular type of curtain?
Grommet-top, room-darkening, floor-length panels — the combination that sells most in the US, largely because grommets glide well and lining suits both bedrooms and living rooms.
What is the difference between curtains and drapes?
In the trade, curtains are lighter, usually unlined, and often sold in standard sizes; drapes are heavier, lined, frequently pleated, and typically made to measure. In everyday American usage the words are interchangeable. See our drapes guides for the lined and pleated side.
Which curtain header looks the most expensive?
Pinch pleat, by a wide margin — especially at proper fullness with a lining. Goblet pleat reads even more formal but only works on tall stationary panels.
Are grommet curtains out of style?
No. Grommets remain the most practical header for curtains you use every day, and in a good fabric they read as clean and modern rather than dated.
Can I mix curtain types in one house?
Yes — mix by room, not within a room. Cafe curtains in the kitchen and pinch pleat in the dining room is normal. Two different headers on the same wall is not.
Keep reading: curtain lengths guide · how to hang curtains · how to measure curtains · all curtain guides